Four promising designers who will mark Paris Fashion Week

Her network of supporters includes fashion industry

During Paris Fashion Week, four emerging fashion houses present their collections for the spring-summer 2027 season, each pursuing a distinct vision that redefines the relationship between clothing and personal identity. These brands seek to transform the act of dressing into a profound experience, either by creating urban landscapes around the body or by treating ordinary moments as special events. Among the names that the mainstream press closely follows are Adelina Bernard (formed by Alice Lindvall and Menno Idink), Lucie Néouze, Meruert Tolegen and Fidan Novruzova.

Fidan Novruzova, founder of the eponymous brand launched in October 2020, recently acknowledged that a considerable dose of illusion was essential to her professional success. She remembers humorously how she jumped over the hours at a Moldova public school to build her portfolio that opened her door to the prestigious Central Saint Martins. This energy has turned into a solid career, marked by the status of a finalist in the 2026 ANDAM Prize and a semi-finalist in the 2024 LVMH Prize. Her itinerary took her from Chisinau to London and then to Paris, where she made her first official presentation, following the scheduled schedule, on Monday.

Her network of supporters includes fashion industry personalities and famous public figures including Solange, Chloë Sevigny, Dua Lipa, Rosalía, Tessa Thompson and Irina Shayk. Now working from a modest studio in the French capital, Novruzova approaches each collection as a reflection of the last six months of her life, drawing inspiration from the visual culture of the Internet that marked her youth. Its established aesthetic codes include a controlled deconstruction, tight waists, bold closures, and a blend of materials such as neoprene and leather with silhouettes inspired by casual clothing, all designed to maintain a sense of freedom of movement.

For the spring-summer 2027 season, artist Mara Goldberg served as the inspiration for a collection Novruzova described as „occasional everyday clothing”. Clothes are designed to make the morning preparation ritual special, even for a simple walk to the cafe, but they're designed for frequent use. The range includes t-shirts with multiple folded panels or exaggerated collars, short-coated jackets and blouses with deconstructed asymmetrical crops, which take a sculptural shape. They revised the round leather boleros with firmware covering the entire rim, launched the first model of sandals and the Mira Vanity bag, named after her niece and equipped with integrated mirrors. A collaboration with Adidas brings to the forehead triple-strings tied up in the butt, a reference to the designer's earlier bootleg designs.

Meruert Tolegen approaches fashion from the perspective

Prices range from around EUR 200 for jersey shirts to EUR 2,000 for leather jackets. In the last 12 months, accessories accounted for 55% of sales, and ready-to-wear 45%. The direct-to-consumer channel generated 57% of the turnover, while the gross channel contributed 43%. The brand is distributed in select stores including H. Lorenzo, Carmen Amsterdam, Empty Seoul, Le Salon Macau and Fernweh Tokyo.

Meruert Tolegen approaches fashion from the perspective of finding pieces that look melancholic, playful and artistic, yet still retain functionality. This fine balance has been refined over the course of a six-year career that began with a children's clothing brand. Born in Kazakhstan and raised in New York City, this self-taught woman came to the fashion world through pre-medicine studies and internships in hospitals. He later discovered that his hands, used to sew wounded fingers, were better suited to drawing, painting, and dissecting the archival dresses he had discreetly collected from the Century 21 store near his home, including pieces signed by the late Alber Elbaz.

Although he began selling in Paris, his manual labor techniques, dantela, and sculpted volume found a loyal audience in the United States, reinforced by the opening of a New York boutique. Being a semi-finalist at the LVMH Prize 2025, Tolegen now offers a more complete picture of her universe through a presentation on Tuesday at the Palais de Tokyo, organised in the showroom of the Sphere, in partnership with the Federation de Haute Couture et de la Mode.

For spring 2027, the creative process started with the dolls before focusing on the floral motifs. The polished dots meet with cross-stitched embroidery and watercolor-like fields. The collection comprises denim jackets with wheels, sculptural skirts, basket dresses, cocoon jackets and corset pieces, reinterpreted for comfort, colour diversity and adaptability to different body types, including for men. Prices start at about $600 for b