Romance was in the air at Acne Studios SS27
How did the New Romantics influence modern luxury fashion?
Acne Studios unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection during Paris Fashion Week on October 1, 2026, presenting a bold revival of romantic and theatrical styles under creative director Jonny Johansson. Inspired by the flamboyant aesthetics of Adam Ant and the New Romantics movement of the early 1980s, the show offered a dramatic counterpoint to minimalist trends dominating recent seasons. Held in a transformed Parisian venue, the presentation featured models adorned in ruffled shirts, velvet tailoring, and exaggerated silhouettes that evoked a sense of nostalgic escapism.
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What does this mean for Acne Studios’ creative direction?
The New Romantics movement, known for blending gender-fluid styling with historical references and pop culture flair, has seen periodic revivals in high fashion. Acne Studios’ SS27 interpretation translates this ethos through modern tailoring techniques and luxurious materials, avoiding costume-like pastiche. Critics noted the collection’s balance between homage and innovation, particularly in how traditional masculine forms were softened with frills and fluid draping. The approach reflects a broader industry shift toward expressive, narrative-driven design in response to homogenized streetwear dominance.
By embracing romantic extravagance, Johansson signals a renewed focus on artistic experimentation within the brand’s identity. While Acne Studios has long been associated with Scandinavian minimalism, this collection suggests a willingness to explore contrasting aesthetics without abandoning its core ethos of quality and innovation. Industry observers speculate that this directional shift may influence future collections, potentially opening space for more genre-defying collaborations. The show’s reception at Paris Fashion Week indicates strong interest in fashion that prioritizes mood and character over transient trends.
What specific elements from Adam Ant’s style appeared in the collection? The collection featured Adam Ant-inspired details such as military-style jackets with ornate braiding, asymmetrical hemlines, and bold use of eyeliner and facial styling in the presentation, reflecting his signature blend of romantic and rebellious fashion.
Frequently Asked Questions
Was the collection well received by critics and attendees? Early responses highlighted the collection’s emotional resonance and craftsmanship, with several reviewers praising its courage to embrace theatricality in a commercial context, noting it as one of the more memorable shows of Paris Fashion Week SS27.
How does this collection differ from Acne Studios’ recent offerings? Compared to the brand’s recent focus on neutral palettes and relaxed tailoring, SS27 introduced vibrant colors, intricate detailing, and a pronounced sense of costume-like storytelling, marking a clear stylistic departure.